7/6/2023 0 Comments Al pastor tacos near me![]() ![]() ![]() Aguilar usually quotes you a time if no one else is around the turnaround is quick, five to 10 minutes.The humble taco is the most iconic Mexican food. Use them liberally, whether you’re taking your mariscos to go or claiming one of the shaded tables in the plaza. They’re hard to miss the colors are magnetic. The salsas live in a cabinet along the truck’s side panel. It’s amazing on any of the tacos but particularly rewarding on the soft-shell crab for the crackle-squish textural contrasts it lends. ![]() The newest addition is the most special yet: salsa de chicharrón, a traditional condiment smoky with morita chiles and winningly chunky with strips of softened pork rind. He makes salsa macha full of mulchy, crunch and nutty flavors guacachile I could basically drink and a carrot-habanero situation that tastes as earthy-sweet and hot as it sounds. They’re familiar and exactingly pretty … and also the least interesting thing on the menu.Īguilar drifts away from seafood with a carne asada taco I recommend it mostly as a vehicle for his half-dozen prismatic salsas. Palm-sized soft-shell crabs, when they’re available, are fried and sparked with pickled onion, finely diced pico piña and dots of chipotle mayo.īaja-style tacos, built from fried shrimp or fish, sport the telltale squiggles of mayo and the curly tuft of cabbage. ![]() So does the taco inspired by enchilada suiza, condensing its rich comforts into grilled shrimp, swirling molten cheese and sharp salsa verde it disappears in four bites. A duo of shrimp and bacon delivers straightforward pleasure. I urge you to order one, though the more I try from Simón the harder it is to breeze through the standout tacos in one sitting. He anchors it to the plate with a dense bean puree and showers it with finely crumbled cotija. Their pescadillas were thin and shattering Aguilar’s are puffy, nearly a masa empanada, encasing shrimp and tilapia in a marinade of tomato, onion, cilantro and oregano. I remember relishing the pescadillas at the heartbreakingly short-lived Tamales Elena y Antojitos in Bell Gardens, where the Lorenzo-Irra family illuminated the Afro-Mexican cooking of Guerrero’s Costa Chica. The taco that for Aguilar most reps his home state is the pescadilla, a folded fried taco synonymous with the Costa region of Oaxaca and the neighboring state of Guerrero. The tastes are earthy and herbal and ultimately warming - a fun paradox for a chilled seafood dish. Its base is chintextle, a Oaxacan smoked chile paste blended with (among many ingredients) avocado leaves, shrimp heads and lots of garlic. I return for the aguachile rojo, which hasn’t been the most popular of the bunch but which Aguilar keeps on the menu as an evocation of Oaxaca. Aguilar’s cousin Alexis Chacon grew up in Los Angeles and believed in his talents last year Chacon partnered with Aguilar on launching a lonchera to help establish him locally. at the start of this decade with a plan to open his own restaurant. After graduating from culinary school there, he worked in restaurants that included Pitiona, a staple on best-of lists for its tasting menu focused on traditional Oaxacan ingredients. He was born in the United States and raised in Oaxaca City in Mexico. There will never be such a thing as oversaturation in L.A.’s taco culture, but wild cards are always welcome, and Aguilar rates a categorical free-thinker. Sometimes he uses yellow corn and sometimes blue, but lately he’s decided he likes the toothy-soft bite that comes from combining the two of them, resulting in beautifully mottled canvases on which to create. Currently he buys masa from El Mexicano Market in South L.A. When it comes to tortillas, and cooking in general, Aguilar is experimental. ![]()
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